The belle of the Halloween ball may always be a beautiful, big, shiny orange pumpkin, but who says gourds and squash have to play the roles of the ugly stepsisters? Yes, they can be bumpy, misshapen and mottled, but we think these small autumn fruits have a unique appeal all their own. Try taking them out of the pantry this year and adding them to a genteel holiday table setting — watch how their variegated complexions, sizes and contours liven up the space. Lasting from four to six months, their subtle greens, whites, peachy-oranges and yellows are a much more natural, sophisticated foil for candlelit rooms and place settings, and lined up on a windowsill they make a whimsical display that bridges the gap between summer’s profusion of foliage and winter’s holiday trimmings.

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