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Ireland Day 3: “Winston Churchill was a warlock*?”

by Erin McLaughlin
July 22nd, 2009

Apologies for my lack of blogging - the internet connections (and possibly my laptop) have been causing me a significant amount of grief… But here I am, writing away at the Westville Hotel in Enniskillen, and I can’t wait to talk about my day at Mount Stewart, a national trust property in Northern Ireland. I promise to catch up on yesterday’s events a little later today! (hint: it includes barbecue sauce!!)

When I imagine life in Ireland, I usually think nostalgia. I’m not sure why, after all Ireland is a modern, bustling economic force, but I still can’t help but think of visions of  the 1920s… Maybe it’s my penchant for Merchant Ivory films, but whenever I’ve come across a National Trust property, I’m smitten. Mount Stewart is simply one of the best properties that I’ve ever been to. Perhaps it is because a family member is still present there. (Lady Mairi Bury is in her late eighties and resides in the magnificent house). Or maybe it’s because of the fabulous George Stubbs painting that hangs in the hall. Or the multitudes of family portraits that hang throughout the rooms, given you a glimpse into a kinder, gentler life. But in reality, I think it is because of the gardens. They are truly sublime. 

Designed in the 1920s by Lady Mairi’s mother, Lady Londonberry, the gardens are elegant testaments to her original vision. Lovingly cared for by the head gardener Owen (who I was lucky enough to meet) the gardens exude style, energy and grace. We got there at midday (not exactly the best time to shoot a garden), but we were lucky to have beautiful light, thanks to those endless Irish clouds. 

I’m thankful we had an opportunity to visit Mount Stewart, and I implore anyone who dreams of visiting Ireland to make sure that a visit - preferably a whole day there - is on their schedule. There is even a lovely spot to have lunch or tea (and they make a yummy carrot cake too!)

I haven’t been able to download my personal shots of Mount Stewart, but here is a glimpse courtesy of the Irish Tourist board.

Imagine being able to live here?

Imagine being able to live here?

Following our dreamy time there, we were picked up and taken to the Culloden Hotel and Spa, an exceptionally grand property on the outskirts of Belfast. It was the quintessentially beautiful old-style hotel. We checked in and had a (freshly baked) scone and tea. Yum! The beds were cozy. We were sad to only be able to spend one night there….

* Other than the Mount Stewart property, Lady Londonderry is perhaps best known for her role as ’society’s queen’ - a hostess to the rich and famous. Her close circle of friends included Winston Churchill, Lady Astor, Neville Chamberlain and Harold Macmillan who congregated in her salon, known as ‘The Ark’. Each of the members of ‘The Ark’ had nicknames, and Winston Churchill was known as ‘Winston the warlock’

**if you are interested in visiting Ireland, check out www.discoverireland.com

Ireland Day 2: “Do you want a pint or a glass?*”

by Erin McLaughlin
July 19th, 2009

It’s official. I’m a Guiness drinker. But only in Ireland. I’m not sure whether it is because of the bracing winds, the intermittent downpours or the attractive Irish barhands, but Guiness seems to be the drink of choice on my tour of Ireland. 

Today started at the Powerscourt Estate in Co. Wicklow. A fabulous property that overlooks the ridiculously perfect “Sugar Loaf” mountain, Powerscourt encompasses the best of international gardening styles in one property. From formal Italian gardens (think clipped boxwood and tight circular beds planted with red roses) to a jewel of a Japanese garden, Powerscourt sparked my gardening imagination. One particularly quirky feature, however, was the family pet cemetary (the Slazenger family, of the eponymous tennis racket manufacturing company, vacated the house in the last decade or so). Some may find it morbid, but I found the stone markers of everyone from “Mrs. Mare, a brilliant hunter & companion” who passed away in 1940 at 19 years of age to “Sailor, a curly retriever, a faithful companion for 5 years.” powerscourterinpeggy

The animal kingdom theme continued at the Irish National Stud, which is the only Irish stud farm opened to the public, was our next stop. Of course, I was thrilled to see some incredible thoroughbreds first-hand. Better still was our second Japanese garden of the day, which depicted rather romantically the stages of life. The garden, which I will detail later this week, was simply spectacular. It will be celebrating its 100th anniversary next year.irishstudjapanesegarden

 

 

But back to the most important part of my day: the delicious pint of Guiness that I consumed at the quintessentially Irish pub “Johnny Fox’s.” Where Irish music and dancing was the order of the day. I enjoyed my meal of colcannon soup, grilled salmon and whisky cake - perhaps a little too much! (I rarely eat dessert!). Until tomorrow’s adventures!

*of course I want a pint of Guiness!

 

**if you are interested in visiting Ireland, check out www.discoverireland.com

Ireland Day 1: “No further than a donkey’s bray*”

by Erin McLaughlin
July 18th, 2009

I am writing this at 1 a.m., Dublin Ireland time. Photographer Stacey Haines and I arrived early this morning and descended from the airplane into misty Irish weather. We were delighted to land on a perfectly overcast day, just right for photography. After checking in to the Fitzwilliam Hotel (a chic hotel designed by Terence Conran that sits in central Dublin just around the corner of Grafton St - a fab pedestrian walkway), we were whisked off with contest winners Jackie and Peggy to the Farmleigh estate to enjoy a picnic on the grounds. Our driver, an Irishman with smiling blue eyes and a penchant for telling great stories, regaled us with humourous tales as we drove through the winding streets of Dublin to our destination. Once there, we unloaded a full gourmet picnic (courtesy of the Fitzwilliam) and carried baskets laden with fruit, wine, sandwiches and crisp white table linens down to the boathouse. As we reached our destination, the skies opened and the rain began to pour down on us! Thankfully, our starched napkins ended up being perfect for mopping up sopping wet seats! 

After a quick tour of Farmleigh, we explored the walled gardens and then headed back to the Fitzwilliam. For those of you who have read my previous bathtub blog, you’ll know that I DO love a good bath. Thankfully, the Fitzwilliam had tons of hot water! 

Okay, my bathroom at the hotel isn't quite as big as this one in their penthouse suite, but it's still awesome!

Okay, my bathroom at the hotel isn't quite as big as this one in their penthouse suite, but it's still awesome!

 

Dinner this evening was unbelievably delicious and was at the Winding Stair Bookcase and Restaurant. The tiny spot sits on a road along the Liffey river, and can be reached by the trendy Temple Bar area by taking the Haypenny pedestrian bridge. All thoughts to dieting were blown asunder as I tucked into a spectacular meal of organic and local Irish food, including warmed ginger and pear pudding for dessert. 

My thoughts today about Ireland are nostalgic. I was last here on a family vacation with my late mother, dad and older sister Alexis. When I bit into the homemade soda bread at the Winding Stair, the taste immediately conjured up memories of that trip from thirty years before. It feels like I’ve come home!

*our driver Leo tells us that this is a way that locals tell short distances - although the real Irish expression is “no further than an ass’ roar”

**if you are interested in visiting Ireland, check out www.discoverireland.com

Green with Envy (aka Luck of the Irish)

by Erin McLaughlin
March 17th, 2009

Imagine my surprise when I came into the Home & Country offices today (also our offices for Canadian Gardening magazine where I am also the Editor) to find that the only person to dress in green today in honour of St. Patrick’s day was Karina Leimanis, our assistant editor. I’m sure you’ll recognize that the name Karina is not particularly celtic (she’s Latvian in fact) but her green eyes and terrific green dot Banana Republic fact made her an honourary Irishwoman for the day. After a fantastic media cocktail party hosted by Tourism Ireland at the Four Seasons, Toronto (note my GREEN tote bag full of press kits), I am heading off to the opening night for Canada Blooms, where all things green will be present. After a dark winter, nothing will be more appealing than the scent of fresh flowers. Incidentally, the Gala is sponsored by Tourism Ireland as well, so I’m looking forward to a rollicking evening of music (and hopefully green beer!)  As a side note, for all of you naysayers out there who don’t believe one should dress up for St. Patrick’s Day, I say “get some Irish into your life.”karinsanderin

So here I am, wearing green with Karina outside my office!

Ever since I was a child, dressing up in green on St. Patrick’s day was one of my favourite activities. My late mother would even dye our glass of milk green, and cut our sandwiches into a shamrock shape. Maybe it’s my love for my late paternal grandfather, who was born outside of Belfast. Something about wearing green makes me feel more connected to him (although ironically it was his least favourite colour), or maybe it’s just because I love green in March! If green is inspiring you as well, you can enter a contest to join me in Ireland this July. Click on this link to enter: www.canadiangardening.com/ireland.php

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