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Posts Tagged ‘ Stacey Haines ’

Ireland: Days 5 and 6: “How many potatoes can you eat in 2 days?*”

by Erin McLaughlin
July 24th, 2009

I’m combining my last two days due to a lack of internet access - again! Although Ireland isn’t a particularly large country, it does take a while to get from point A to point B. A combination of winding roads and frequent stops to take photographs can add hours to a drive! Such has been my experience in the past two days… 

Wednesday: A walk through the pretty town of Enniskillen revealed a number of fabulous small restaurants, including Taste (which is run by Belle Isle cookery school’s Liz Moore), and Scott’s. My ever-expanding waistline (don’t come to Ireland if you want to diet!) felt quite comfortable among the comfort food selections at Scott’s. Where I may have gone slightly astray was when I ordered a side-dish of champ (it arrived in a large serving bowl)!! A side of baby boiled potatoes actually contained a quantity of 18 potatoes (I counted), and the side dish of chips (also known as fries), was an equally large amount. I have never eaten so many potatoes in my life! Fortunately, I had my colleagues to share my meal with… I’ve found that a lot of the potatoes that we consume here is a variety called “Rooster.” For more about growing Irish potatoes, there’s a great website for Irish Potato Marketing: www.ipm.ie

We also had a fascinating visit to the Marble Arch caves geopark in Fermanagh county. This is truly an incredible experience. I’ve taken a paragraph from their visitors guide to describe it: 

The Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark is host to one of Europe’s finest showcaves allowing visitors to explore a fascinating, natural underworld of rivers, waterfalls, winding passages and lofty chambers. Lively and informative guides conduct tours past a bewildering variety of cave formations – stalactites glisten above stream ways and chambers while fragile mineral veils and cascades of creamy calcite coat walls and spread as shimmering terraces across rock strewn floors. Spectacular walkways allow easy access while powerful lighting reveals the stunning beauty and grandeur of the caves. Electrically powered boats glide through huge caverns carrying visitors along a subterranean river.

As much as I loved the caves and their history, nothing prepared me for the shocking beauty of the Donegal hills. I truly don’t think you can experience Ireland until you visit the Northwest. Stacey Haines and I spent the day travelling with our guide, Tim Conway, who drove us through some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen. (Kudos to Tim and his patience with our constant clamour of “Stop the car!!!! We have to take a photograph!!”) I have yet to download my photos - which I will do upon my return to Canada this Sunday - but here are some stunning shots supplied by the Irish Tourism Board to give you a sense of what we saw. From peat bogs to cliffs to hedgerows of fuchsia to views of the sea… It is truly heavenly…donegalbeachSuch scenes are common in the Northwest of Ireland. The light is beautiful here, as Stacey will attest to. 

 

the pile at the left is "peat"

the pile at the left is "peat"

I simply love Ireland! We were also thrilled to discover a craft village in Donegal which is host to numerous artisans. In particular, I fell for the creative charms of weaver Clare O’Presco. Interestingly enough, her father is French Canadian! At any rate, she weaves with 100% wool Donegal tweed. Her work is intensely pretty and focuses on innovative use of colour. We also visited Triona Design in Ardara (30 winding minutes further up the road from Donegal), and were able to witness a weaver creating traditional Irish tweed. It felt like we’d stepped back in time…

For more information about traveling to Ireland, log on to www.discoverireland.com

Ireland Day 4: An Irish barbecue?*

by Erin McLaughlin
July 22nd, 2009

Let me just start this blog with a wee note about the weather: I have never encountered a more enjoyably temperamental climate! There is nothing boring about Ireland when it comes to the temperature. In a 15 minute period, one can be enjoying intense sunlight (jacket and sweater OFF), pouring rain (jacket and sweater ON),humidity (jacket OFF), wind (jacket ON, sweater OFF?) Argh! Needless to say, one must always dress in layers! (and have sunglasses AND an umbrella at the ready!) For people like me with short attention spans, this weather actually suits my personality quite well!

At any rate, day 4 in Ireland was spent at the impressive Belle Isle Cookery School under the tutelage (and watchful eye!) of  chef and cooking school manager Liz Moore. pic_37The four of us (winners Peggy and Jackie, photographer Stacey Haines and myself), along with about 15 other students, listened to Liz’s incredibly inspiring and practical advice and then proceeded to cook up a figurative storm (the literal storm was happening right outside the windows). I was in awe of Liz’s mesmerizing style of teaching, and was even more delighted with her British racing green AGA cooker!  Some of the memorable tips we learned are as follows:

1. Wet a tea towel and lay it under the cutting board to keep it from slipping on the counter.

2. Use the edge of a spoon to peel fresh ginger instead of a paring knife or peeler (you waste less ginger that way!)

3. To get rid of the smell of garlic or onions on your hands, run your hands along the edge of something stainless steel  underneath cold running water (the smell will miraculously be neutralized!)

4. Never eat anything but free-range chicken (she’d rather eat free-range chicken that’s NOT organic than organic chicken that’s NOT free-range)

5. To get the maximum amount of juice from a lime, roll around on the counter by pressing down firmly with your palm. The pressure helps to release the juice from the rind. Then cut the lime in half and squeeze with a juicer as per the usual method.

What made Liz’s course so special to me was that her cooking style is accessible but also has inspirational elements. I learned to make a decent caesar salad dressing (yes, it does need anchovies), as well as a homemade barbecue sauce (forget fish and chips, the Irish like to barbecue too!*). As I’m able to download my images, I’ll start putting them up of some of my edible handiwork!

No, I'm not in this photo

No, I'm not in this photo

At the end of the school day, the students retired to an elegant dining room and ate the results. We were all pretty pleased with ourselves! 

Aside from Liz’s teaching skills, the setting of Belle Isle makes it a very special place to visit in Northern Ireland. It is in a beautiful acreage of rolling hills and historic buildings. In fact, you can spend a week at Belle Isle - there are lovely cottages that you can rent, as well as self-catering apartments to stay in - while you learn fab culinary skills. My favourite spot (and where we ended up taking Liz’s portrait for Canadian Gardening magazine) was in a walled garden behind the school where climbing roses and sweetpeas grow rampant. I would return to Belle Isle at any opportunity!

food32

Don’t forget, if you’re interested in traveling to Ireland, check out www.discoverireland.com

Ireland Day 1: “No further than a donkey’s bray*”

by Erin McLaughlin
July 18th, 2009

I am writing this at 1 a.m., Dublin Ireland time. Photographer Stacey Haines and I arrived early this morning and descended from the airplane into misty Irish weather. We were delighted to land on a perfectly overcast day, just right for photography. After checking in to the Fitzwilliam Hotel (a chic hotel designed by Terence Conran that sits in central Dublin just around the corner of Grafton St - a fab pedestrian walkway), we were whisked off with contest winners Jackie and Peggy to the Farmleigh estate to enjoy a picnic on the grounds. Our driver, an Irishman with smiling blue eyes and a penchant for telling great stories, regaled us with humourous tales as we drove through the winding streets of Dublin to our destination. Once there, we unloaded a full gourmet picnic (courtesy of the Fitzwilliam) and carried baskets laden with fruit, wine, sandwiches and crisp white table linens down to the boathouse. As we reached our destination, the skies opened and the rain began to pour down on us! Thankfully, our starched napkins ended up being perfect for mopping up sopping wet seats! 

After a quick tour of Farmleigh, we explored the walled gardens and then headed back to the Fitzwilliam. For those of you who have read my previous bathtub blog, you’ll know that I DO love a good bath. Thankfully, the Fitzwilliam had tons of hot water! 

Okay, my bathroom at the hotel isn't quite as big as this one in their penthouse suite, but it's still awesome!

Okay, my bathroom at the hotel isn't quite as big as this one in their penthouse suite, but it's still awesome!

 

Dinner this evening was unbelievably delicious and was at the Winding Stair Bookcase and Restaurant. The tiny spot sits on a road along the Liffey river, and can be reached by the trendy Temple Bar area by taking the Haypenny pedestrian bridge. All thoughts to dieting were blown asunder as I tucked into a spectacular meal of organic and local Irish food, including warmed ginger and pear pudding for dessert. 

My thoughts today about Ireland are nostalgic. I was last here on a family vacation with my late mother, dad and older sister Alexis. When I bit into the homemade soda bread at the Winding Stair, the taste immediately conjured up memories of that trip from thirty years before. It feels like I’ve come home!

*our driver Leo tells us that this is a way that locals tell short distances - although the real Irish expression is “no further than an ass’ roar”

**if you are interested in visiting Ireland, check out www.discoverireland.com

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